Palm Sunday, Walnut Canyon and La Posada

Another busy day here in Arizona. I was wiped out yesterday from walking the Red Rock State Park, so I got up early this morning to post yesterday's blog entry. By the time I was finished, it was time to head out for church. Today was Palm Sunday, which has always been significant to Kathy and I; it was 35 years ago today that the Lord gave us the name Hosanna for our daughter.

There is a Calvary Chapel in Flagstaff and Steve VanDalen is the Pastor. They meet in a high school just outside of town. We got there a little early and were able to talk with Steve before the service began. During the service we learned a new chorus that Kathy really liked: Crushing Snakes. After the service we spent a little more time visiting with Steve and his wife Brittany, and their three children.

We went to lunch at the Northern Pines restaurant and then cruised through the historic downtown section of Flagstaff, before heading off to see the Walnut Canyon National Monument on the way to Winslow. 

Walnut Canyon is an area that was populated by the Sinagua Indians (the ancestors of the Hopi and perhaps the Zuni) between 1100 and 1250, about the time of the Crusades in Europe. The Sinagua built their homes into the side of the cliffs, using the naturally occurring overhangs as roofs and the remote location for protection.

When we arrived at the National Monument, the ranger let all of the cars behind us back up, while he explained why we shouldn't purchase two single-entry tickets for $30 when we could, as senior citizens, purchase a year long pass to all of the national parks for $20. I was very impressed, and of course, we bought the pass.

To walk down into the Canyon, (called the Island trail), you have to climb down 385 steps. A sign at the head of the trail reads, "Climbing down is optional; climbing back up is mandatory." It wasn't as bad as it sounds, though, and it was really spectacular. 

Kathy really enjoyed it. There were a lot of other families on the trail as well, those with children, and couples who were closer to our age.

After Walnut Canyon we got back on US 40 and headed for Winslow. We thought about stopping to see the Meteor Crater, but our guidebook said that it's kind of an overpriced attraction. Kathy said, "It's a hole in ground!". We skipped it in favor of something much more significant.

Winslow is famous both for its mention in the Nat King Cole song, Get Your Kicks on Route 66, as well as the more recent Jackson Browne song, recorded by the Eagles, Taking It Easy. Like every other tourist to this town, we had to take our picture, standing on the corner.

The real reason we stopped in Winslow, though, it to spend the night at one of the classic restored hotels in the world, La Posada. Build by Fred Harvey, and designed by Mary Colter, this was one of the premier tourist destinations for upper-class tourists visiting Indian Country. They even made a Judy Garland musical about it, Harvey Girls.

When it opened in 1929, before the stock market crash, this was the place for the rich and famous to go. Howard Hughes, Bob Hope, Albert Einstein, Frank Sinatra, and others all stayed here. 

After the depression and World War II, train travel dried up, and middle-class Americans took their automobiles instead, staying at places like the Wigwam Motel (where we'll sleep tomorrow). By the 1950s, La Posada closed for good. The Santa Fe company converted it into offices.

In 1997, Allen Affeldt, and his wife, the painter Tina Minon, purchased the property with the goal of restoring it to its original glory. Today, it's almost always fully booked. Apparently, it's very popular with European tourists, who rent motorcycles, living out the Easy Rider Route 66 dream.

The other reason people come from all over to Winslow is to eat at the hotel's Turquoise Room. This was our vacation splurge night, so we made reservations for 5:30 (the only time we could get).

This time, I didn't forget my duty; I remembered to take pictures of the food. We started by sharing a bowl of sweet corn and black bean soup in a yin/yang shape, with the La Posada initials drizzled over the top. It was great.

Then, I had the wild platter; a deep-fried quail, with a tender elk medallion, accompanied by a cheese and corn tamale, covered with bison, venison, and javelina chili. (I told Kathy that I was going for it; no more chicken breast or shrimp or pasta for me.)

Kathy's dish was certainly as unique, if not as "out there". She had grilled salmon, cooked inside a tamale. It was also delicious.

Tomorrow we're going to put our new National Parks pass to good use and visit the Petrified Forest, sleeping at the Wigwam Motel #6 in Holbrook, the last one left in the United States.

Red-Rock Country

Annie was right! The sun will come out tomorrow. We opened our window at 7am to a blinding white Williams, and not a cloud in the sky. What a beautiful day for a beautiful drive. On the road by 8 am, we headed back to LA and picked up AZ 89 heading south out Ash Fork, to Prescott. (Those who have lived there tell me it's pronounced Press-kit.) The landscape with its small pines and pinion trees reminded us of Oregon, between Bend and Klamath Falls. 

By the time we got to Prescott, we were hungry, so we headed to the Raven Cafe on Cortez Street in the old historic downtown for breakfast. Here you order at the bar, and pick a table.

I had the chilaquiles omelet and Kathy had a chorizo breakfast burrito with greens. Both were delicious. Be sure to stop when you come. Afterwards we walked off our breakfast by exploring the downtown area. Prescott is no longer the capital of the Arizona Territory, but it is still the county seat. We parked right in front of the courthouse. Parking was free and easy to find (although I understand that's not always the case). 

The area around the courthouse, for several blocks in either direction, is full of "antique" and consignment stores featuring "mid-century vintage clothing". It's odd to think of the clothing you grew up with, now being vintage and antique. In any event, Kathy had a ball exploring.

The downtown is full of beautiful old historic buildings. Most, though, like the bank on the corner, have been repurposed. This is now a candle store.

On the main square is a statue of Bucky O'Neil, a sheriff, newspaper editor, miner, politician, gambler and lawyer, mainly in Arizona. He got his nickname from "bucking the odds" whenever he played cards. He was a captain in Teddy Roosevelt's Rough Riders, and he died in battle. The monument is dedicated to the Rough Riders.

Mingus Mountain & Jerome

After breakfast, we set out on AZ 89A for Sedona and Flagstaff, our Saturday night stop. This road goes up over Mingus Mountain, and it is a beautiful drive. 

We had planned to stop in the old mining town of Jerome. A ghost town in 1953 when Phelps Dodge closed their mines, it was colonized by artists and bohemians in the 1970s. 

We wanted to buy one of the Nellie Bly kaleidoscopes as a gift for our grandchildren. Unfortunately, it was a zoo. Think about driving down Balboa Blvd. on the Fourth of July. No parking anywhere, and the town overrun by tourists (like us!). Apparently it's a popular weekend destination.

Red Rock State Park

Leaving Jerome to the tourist horde, we headed to Sedona, and stopped off at Red Rock State Park. This would turn out to be the highlight of our day. We parked and spent the whole afternoon hiking.

The park is a nature and environmental preserve with miles of marked trails. We started up the Apache Fire trail and then connected to Coyote Ridge. At the top, we could look out over miles of red-rock landscape.

Here's a picture of Kathy on the Eagle's Nest trail. We had wanted to walk around the entire park (including to the top of the rocks you can see behind Kathy), but a recent storm had washed out all of the bridges except one. So, we had to head back through the lower trail to our car.

Kathy, of course, had to walk over dangerously close to the edge to read the sign that read, "If you can read this sign, you are too close to the edge. You're going to fall over."

Walking back through the meadow which you can see behind Kathy, she caught this picture of a small deer feeding. 

Leaving the park around 4 pm, we continued on the Red Rock Loop road planning to pick up AZ 89A back to Sedona. Along the way, we saw this interesting (if ugly) house on the top of the rocks overlooking the park. There is apparently no road to the house. The only way you can get there is to go through the matter-transporter, which you can see at right of the house.

Around almost every curve, there was another vista, and we had to pull off to take more pictures.

We had planned to eat lunch in Sedona. By the time we got there is was dinner time. There was a thirty-minute traffic jam in the center of town where AZ 89A merges with AZ 179 coming up from Phoenix. Like Jerome, the town was mobbed, with no place to park. We decided to push on through.

Oak Creek Canyon on the way to Flagstaff was beautiful. When we planned the trip, I had wanted to stop at Slide Rock State Park, which has a natural rock slide going down into the creek. Because of the time, though, we didn't stop. (Also, swimming in the creek when you can still see snow on the mountains didn't seem that attractive.) 

We got into Flagstaff a little after 6 pm, found our hotel and unpacked. The only recommended restaurant I knew about was closed because of Covid. We asked the girl at the front desk where she would eat and she sent us to Taverna, a Greek restaurant a couple of blocks away. I had souvlaki and Kathy had a gyro. Because we were so tired, I forgot to take pictures. Sorry. 

Tomorrow we're going to Palm Sunday service at Calvary Chapel Flagstaff. Then, on to Winslow, to "stand on the corner" and stay at La Posada. See you then.

The Grand Canyon

I promised yesterday to tell you about the Covid-bag breakfast supplied by our hotel. Honestly, it wasn't that hot. At 6 am I was ready for a real breakfast. Kathy wanted to get ready for the day more leisurely, so I took off on foot. Alone. In the snow. 

I walked into town to eat at the Pine Country Cafe, recommended for their breakfasts in the Moon Arizona guidebook. Unfortunately, they weren't open at 6 am. So, I walked through the center of town, looking for a diner serving the other early risers. There weren't any other early risers. I was entirely alone.

As you enter Williams, there is a Safeway, and that was open. They had a food counter which had just opened, and they were making egg sandwiches. I got two, and walked back to our hotel. They were great. Now, you know where to get an early breakfast next time you visit Williams.

After breakfast, Kathy and I drove over to the train depot. We walked through the Harvey House and the Depot gift shop. Outside, there was an old steam locomotive, and a photo opportunity that I couldn't pass up.

At 9 am there was a wild-west skit prior to boarding the train at 9:15. Our tickets were for the original 1923 Pullman Car, which was surprisingly comfortable.

I was amazed at the workmanship, and how well everything was restored.

The 63 miles from Williams to the National Park depot takes about two hours. The train looked to be about 25% filled. Lots of families with kids. Some oldsters like us. A garrulous conductor and a banjo player made it a fun trip in a way.

When we got to the park we skirted the original depot, constructed of logs, and took the stairs up to the Canyon rim. There we found the El Tovar Hotel, with a long line waiting to get in for lunch. Next door was Mary Colter's 1905 Hopi House, a museum and gift shop, featuring Native American arts and pottery. 

Of course, we didn't come to the Grand Canyon to visit a museum, so we walked on by and over to the rim of the Canyon, where we were awe-struck. There didn't seem to be any canyon there.

The entire thing was socked in with fog. You couldn't see a hundred feet, even if you stood at the edge. I tried.

By this time, it had also started snowing even harder. We considered just going into the Hotel, grabbing a hot-chocolate and a seat by the fire, and reading a book. But that would be quitting. Neither of us are quitters.

So, we decided to walk the Rim Trail from the Village center up to the Yavapai Observation Station and Geology Museum. The train left at 3:15 and we thought we could make it back. (We did make it back, but in the future, I'll be sure to consider that I'm no longer 60, and plan a little more realistically.)

There was a long line at the museum and so we sat outside on a bench and ate our lunch. When we headed back, it started snowing even harder. Kathy got out her umbrella. I was wet and tired and miserable. Then, an amazing thing happened. The snow started blowing from the bottom of the Canyon, right up the rim, and the fog started lifting.

By the time we got back to the Village Center, we could see almost the entire Canyon. I liked this picture of Kathy walking over to the edge and taking a selfie.

As you can see here, the picture came out great. (I tried to do the same thing, but I have a fear of heights and my hands start shaking.)

Every few minutes there was something else to see. Kathy took a video of a herd of mule deer feeding and then shot this picture of me with an elk in the background.

We tried to identify the trails on the bottom of the Canyon, and talked about how difficult they must be to climb.

Finally, we got back to the train, not a moment too soon. In fact, we didn't have time to walk around to the Bright Angel Trailhead, so we still can't figure out how people can actually reach the bottom of the Canyon.

Two more items of interest. On the way back to Williams, our train was robbed. We each lost a dollar. If you recognize either of these miscreants, contact law enforcement.

Fortunately, they missed our credit-cards, so we still had time for dinner at Rod's Steak House, a Williams classic since 1945. It was great.

Tomorrow we're up early to head on down to Prescott, then over the Verde Valley highway past Mingus Mountain and Jerome, to Sedona. We'll spend the afternoon in Sedona, and sleep in Flagstaff. I understand that there will be no snow.

A Great Southwest Road Trip

It's been more than two years since Kathy and I had our last trip together, visiting Austria and Italy for the 2018 European Mission's conference, Refresh Europe. This morning, newly vaccinated, and one-year-Covid-stir-crazy, we set out on our own version of the legendary Route 66 road trip.

We woke up at 4:00, and were in the car and on the freeway by 6:00 am. I spent most of the night dreaming that I had already woken up and was trying to remember everything we had to pack. I hope we didn't forget anything. Those of you who have seen the thirty-five pound carry-on suitcases that we've lived out of in the past, would be shocked to see how much more we could carry when we have our own car.

Traffic was light out of Orange County, through the El Cajon Pass to Barstow, where we made our first IHop stop for breakfast by 7:30. I highly recommend the 55+ Rise and Shine breakfast for $ 8.19.

Turning off on US 40, the Purple Heart Highway, we spent our time remembering road trips when we were children, and listening to Tony Hillerman's Sinister Pig on CD. Jim Chee and Joe Leaphorn unearth a scheme to smuggle cocaine through an abandoned oil and gas pipeline from Mexico.

The road from Barstow to Needles (on Colorado River) goes through the Mojave Desert which is empty and desolate. Running alongside the highway, about a hundred yards away, was a fence; we both wondered what it was for. It didn't seem like it was there to keep people out (or in). There were no cattle who could wander on to the road and pose a traffic hazard. I Googled "mojave fauna" to see if there was a wildlife situation. I was surprised to see that there were Big Horn Sheep and Mojave Mule Deer, but we didn't see any.

We crossed the river at Needles. Kathy pointed out that it was probably named after the jagged sawtooth mountains running right next to the highway. Heading up through Kingman, we stopped for a late lunch in Seligman, Arizona. The Pixar founder, John Lasseter, researching the history of Route 66 for his upcoming film Cars, met the Seligman barber Angel Delgadillo, who told him about the day that Interstate 40 opened, (in 1970), bypassing the town, drying up the traffic (and business) in one day. Lasseter took the idea and came up with his fictional town of Radiator Springs, modeled loosely on Seligman.

Instead of drying up like the other towns on the former Route 66, Seligman has capitalized on the film, and on Route 66 nostalgia to hang on. Micheal Wallis, Route 66 historian and author of Route 66: The Mother Road, covers the history of its most famous institution, the Snow Cap Drive In, opened in 1953 by Juan Degadillo, the brother of the barber who entertained Lasseter. We had to give it a try.

Unfortunately, the wind was blowing about 30 mph, it was about 40 degrees, and the Snow Cap had no indoor dining. Some other passing tourists, braving the elements, offered to take our picture in front of the Snow Cap's frontage automobile, advertising "Good Dead Chickens." Being the wimps we are, though, we headed further down Route 66 to the Roadkill Cafe.

Despite the corniness, the food was excellent. Kathy had a Philly Cheese Steak sandwich and I had a French Dip. Large servings, quality ingredients, friendly service. I recommend it if you ever visit. Maybe you'll be more adventurous and order the Buffalo or Elk burger.

In the late afternoon we arrived in Williams, where we'll take the train tomorrow to the Grand Canyon (with a thousand other people). We got a nice room at the La Quinta Inn. I got it because it included a free breakfast, but with the pandemic, you get a "breakfast bag" to eat in your room. I'll let you know how it goes in the morning.

The weather is pretty cold as you can see. Yes that is snow around the La Quinta sign. I also mentioned that it was pretty windy. The only hat I brought was my Panama to keep the sun off of my head. That didn't help with the cold. So, after we unpacked, we drove back to town (three blocks). Along the way, we stopped by the railroad depot to pick up our tickets, thus avoiding the hordes in the morning. I got a nice red-white and blue beanie. It really does keep my ears warm, and it's quite fetching.

After that, we walked through the historic district and did some shopping. We then sat in the car and listened to another chapter of the Sinister Pig. Neither of us were hungry after our late lunch, so we headed back to the hotel around 6:00. Tomorrow, the Grand Canyon.