Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Bike and Barge Part 3

Because I'm so far behind, I'm going to try to cover the last three days of our bike trip in one post. On Wednesday morning, we set out for Thionville, about 35 km away. After the last two days, we were all happy to have a comparatively short ride (over good roads).


Since the ride was so short, we spent the morning touring Metz. Like most French cities, first stop was the Cathedral.


Our next stop was the covered market, not to buy anything, but just to look around.



Then, we set out for Thionville, where we arrived about 2:00 pm.


First stop when we got there? The Cathedral. (What, not another Renaissance masterpiece!)


Then, Kathy and I walked around the walls of Thionville before dinner.




Thionville, Schengen and Remich

Thursday was a longer day, 46 km. The first leg was the trip from Thionville to the medieval village of Rodemack. This time everyone traveled together, so we had a large group.


This section of the trip was dominated by the plumes rising from the 4-reactor nuclear power-plant just north of Metz.


A little further along, we went through a forest and came upon some bunkers left from the Maginot Line, the defensive system built in the 1920s and 1930s to repel a German invasion. However, by the time the invasion arrived, technology had rendered the Maginot Line obsolete. Hitler simply flew over it and drove his tanks around it.



A little further along we found a cemetery with a hexagonal Celtic tower. In the background you can see the nuclear plumes endlessly rising.



At this point, we left the river and began the climb to Rodemack. Some of us had a harder time than others. One of the Frenchmen, Denis, helped his wife up one of the hills by riding alongside her and pushing.


Since we weren't riding along the river, we also rode through some French subdivisions. It doesn't look exactly like Irvine or Costa Mesa, does it?


Finally, right at noon we arrived in the village of Rodemack. This is a very small town, but surprisingly, the tourist office had free WiFi, so Kathy was able to post some pictures.


We ate our lunches in the shade and then everyone took some time to walk around the city walls.


On top of the wall, I tried to take our picture together.



We left around 2:00 pm for Schengen in Luxembourg, right on the border. The ride took only about an hour. 


Schengen is where the European Union agreements on open borders were signed. That's why you don't need to go through passport or border control when you go from France to Germany to Luxembourg; all of those countries are part of the Schengen area. (GB is not, however.)


We stayed in Schengen through dinner. After dinner we loaded the bikes on the barge and headed down river to the Luxembourg town of Remich where we docked for the night.


When we reached Remich (about 8:00 pm) Kathy was ready to turn in. (The hill up to Rodemack was really pretty tiring.) I took off on a quick walk around the city. In the park they were having dancing and food, so I bought a large bratwurst and then walked through the city.

As a I was walking through one small lane, all of a sudden I heard singing and saw a crowd of about one hundred people walking towards me carrying candles. I stepped aside and then followed them up through the town to a rock grotto where they had a statue of the Virgin Mary and held some kind of service. I heard later that Thursday was a national holiday in France for the Assumption of Mary.


Trier and Wasserbillig

Friday, our last bike riding day, we set out back on the river up to the German town of Trier. Along the way, the hills were covered with vineyards.



We got to Trier around 2:00 and agreed to meet back at 4:00 for the ride back to the boat. Kathy and I found some shade, since it was very hot, and had our lunch.


Next to where we sat was the Porta Negra, the 2nd century gate into the Roman City. Trier is Germany's oldest city. It was founded by Augustus in 16 BC (although the people of Trier brag that it was inhabited by Celts for 1,300 years before Rome even existed.)


After lunch, across from the Porta Negra, we stopped in to visit an Evangelical church and bookstore on the corner.


Then, we headed to the main square, with all of the tourists and the 90+ degree heat. We were moving pretty slow.


At the beginning of the fourth century, Trier was made the capital of the Western Roman Empire. Emperor Constantine lived here and his mother, Helen, was influential in the development of the Dom or Cathedral.



Inside, its dome is carved instead of painted.


One of the relics that Helen brought back from the Holy Land was the "true robe" of Christ (just like in the book). At the end of the Cathedral is a niche where the robe is stored in a silver trunk. Just like the shroud of Turin, they only bring it out on special occasions.


In the Gothic church next door to the Cathedral, a wedding was taking place. Because it was so hot, all the tourists were lined up in the shade, waiting for the couple to make their getaway in a horse-drawn carriage, just as if it were a regularly scheduled "event".


Further on in the tow in the Basilica. This is the largest intact Roman structure outside of Rome itself. Even though it is now a Basilica, originally it was Constantine's throne room. The last Roman Emperor moved out in 395 AD, and, by the 12th century, Catholic church took it over. In 1856, four hundred years after the Reformation, the Lutheran church took it over. Today, it is the leading Protestant church in Trier.


By 4:00 we were exhausted by the head and ready to head home. 


Unfortunately this time we were riding against the wind. That cooled us down somewhat, but it still took us about 2 hours to ride the 15 km back to Wasserbillig, Luxembourg, where the ship was docked.


After dinner, we sat on the dock, enjoying the calm and just resting. Tomorrow, we'd leave the boat and head for Luxembourg City.


Monday, August 19, 2013

Bike and Barge Part 2

Monday we started out on our first "real" ride: 45 km from Maron to Nancy and then on to Pompey, a very small town where the boat could dock for the night. The fellow in the green shirt on Kathy's right is Mattias and his son, on Kathy's left is Jonas.


Nancy is about 30 km from Maron, and most of the time we rode on well-maintained bike paths that followed the canals.


Along the way, we'd see boats and barges passing us and going through the locks.


As we approached Nancy, we left the bike path and joined the regular traffic heading into town.


Then, we rode right into the central Palais de Sanislas square.


We got to Nancy around 1:30 pm and locked up the bikes, with everyone agreeing to meet back for the ride to Pompey around 4:00. Nancy was originally an independent duchy ruled by one of the King's nephews (Prince Stanislas). He felt he was the rightful king of Poland, but, when he lost the throne there, the king gave him Nancy to rule.

Stanislas was very "arts minded" and the city is more ornate than any I've seen (including Paris). This is one of the four gilded gates that surround the square.


In the center of the square is the statue of Stanislas, and behind it is the Hotel de Ville or City Hall. The Tourist Information office is in this building and they have some great, free WiFi, so Kathy was able to post pictures to Instagram and the blog using her iPhone.


After posting her pictures, Kathy and I went with Claus (an older German man, who had been a fighter pilot in the West German Air Force) to the Pharmacy to pick up some cough medicine for me. Then, we set out around the city to look at the famous Art Nouveau buildings.

This is the Chamber of Commerce building with wrought-iron features by Louis Majorelle.



About four doors down is the Brasserie Excelsior where we stopped for a coke. Built in 1910 by Lucien Weissenburger,, the building features furniture by Majorelle, stained glass by Jacques Gruber and ornamental touches by the Daum brothers.




A little further in town we saw the Republican building...


... and then the Reformed Church.


Of course we had to pass Rue Gilbert.



On our way back to the square, we went through an alley filled with bistros. This one hung a bicycle from the window to attract attention.


Not to be out done, his neighbor features a cow climbing out his window.


We also found a bike shop and I stopped to talk bikes with the proprietor. Unfortunately, he spoke no English at all. He said I could take his picture, though. I think.


Finally, at 4:00, we all met up at the Cathedral or Dom.


Since we still had a few minutes, we walked inside and looked around.



Afterwards, we all got back on our bikes and rode to the small town of Pompey, where the boat was docked and which was about an hour's ride away. In fact, it took us about a half-hour longer, so, when we got back to the boat we had an hour to unwind before dinner.

On to Metz

Our next destination was Metz, (pronounced Mess), 55 kilometers away, but over very bad trails. I woke up a little early and took this picture of the boat at dawn.


At 9:00 am we headed out. Today, the French group decided to ride on their own, and one of the German ladies, who had had a bad fall, decided to stay on the barge. So, in our group there were only 8 or 10 people.


Half way through the ride, Kathy's seat restrainer broke. Jacques (our guide) spent a while trying to fix it, but the part was broken. He had to radio the boat to meet us at Pont a Mousson where we had lunch (and I bought a delicious pastry).


After lunch we headed out through a region of small, abandoned canals and locks. As you can see below, sometimes the trail got very narrow. There were a lot of potholes, roots and wood. It was a very rough ride. I didn't try to take pictures of the rough part, though, because I was usually hanging on for dear life.


Here's one of the old abandoned locks the were originally used by the mining industry in this area.



After about 20 km of very bad trails, we picked up some nice sections, and rode through some small villages. Most of the riding was in rural areas, though.




Along the way, we found this memorial at the spot where the 5th army crossed the Mouselle in 1945.


We also passed the remains of this 2nd Century Roman aqueduct, which originally spanned the Moselle river.


We finally got to our anchor in Metz around 4:00 and I talked Kathy into walking into town, even though both of us were completely exhausted. On this island is the Protestant church.


The one thing that I wanted to do was to visit the covered market where the Soupes a Soups booth has 24 different soups every day. The proprietor, Patrick, didn't speak English, so I didn't quite understand what I had ordered, but it was delicious. After I had finished, one of his Belgian friends stopped by and translated for me when I told Patrick how much I enjoyed the soup. When he heard that, he offered me a bowl of his "masterpiece" tomato soup which was even better.

Afterwards, his friend took a picture of all three of us.


When we got back to the boat and had dinner, Kathy was wiped out, so she sat on deck and got caught up on her journal.


The two young German families wanted to walk back into town, though, so I went with them and Jacques and took a few pictures.