Steve and Kathy's Adventure: Charles in Charge

Charlemagne's Aachen Cathedral

Ascension Day, the day that Jesus ascended to heaven, is always celebrated on the Thursday that falls 40 days after Easter. This year that was May 25th, the day we arrived in Aachen. Ascension Day is a national holiday in Germany; all of the banks and stores are closed, although restaurants are open.

It is also the day the Charlemagne Prize is given out at the Charlemagne Center in Aachen, to the person who has done most to unify the people of Europe. This year the prize went to British historian Timothy Garton Ash. The ceremony began at 11:00 AM and took place directly across the square in front of our hotel. The entire area was filled with a huge crowd, celebrating until the wee hours.

Trying to fall asleep to the music of Peter Sonntag and his band Final Virus.

Friday morning, what with the music and jet-lag, we weren't all that bright-eyed. I woke up at 3:00 AM, and couldn't get back to sleep, so I went to the next room and did some light reading; "Three Hearts and Three Lions", a science-fiction story I had read in Jr. High, about a Danish engineer who goes back in time from World War II, and finds himself a Knight in King Charlemagne's court.

We were the first ones at breakfast at the hotel, and afterwards, we walked around the city, and shopped for the things we had forgotten to pack. My hat was still in the closet at home, so I got a new one. Kathy wanted to get some mugs to make tea and coffee in our room, so we got those as well.

We had a pleasant morning just shopping and doing non-touristy things. By lunch-time, we were ready to resume our appointed tourist roles, so we headed off for lunch. Unfortunately, we waited a little too long; by 12:30 PM, every outdoor cafe shady spot was already taken,

We finally shared a table with two friendly Chinese girls, at Hanswurst. The girls had ordered the sampling platter for two, with every type of sausage and dipping sauce; everyone could tell that they were tourists. Kathy and I split a salad and had a single bratwurst; everyone could tell that we were tourists from California.

Getting our order ready at Hanswurst.

In Aachen, everything is Charlemagne; the Cathedral which he founded in the late 700s AD is done in the Carolingian style named after him. It reminded me of the Byzantine art in cities like Ravena, Italy but not so obviously "Eastern."

Unsophisticated California Protestant in an Ancient Cathedral

Kathy took this about two seconds before the docent rushed across to let me know I had to remove my hat. I guess I never thought about it. On the second floor is Charlemagne's tomb. Kathy wanted to get a picture, but we couldn't go up there. In the Dom information center, though, they had a 3D virtual reality walk through where you could see it. Neat, but not the same thing.

Since Charlemagne was the first post-Roman "western" Emperor he was also entombed there in a gold sarcophagus. Only the tour people got to go up close and there was only one English-language tour, which we had already missed. Still, Kathy's new iPhone has a pretty good zoom, so we got this picture.

Shrine of Charlemagne in Aachen Cathedral

The stained-glass windows were beautiful, but I think it's really hard to get a picture that does them justice.

Stained Glass in Aachen Cathedral

I also always liked the Medieval metal-work surrounding the tombs. I think my daughter Hosanna, who is a metal-smith would appreciate this one.

Funerary Ornamentation at Aachen Cathedral

The hot mineral baths where Charlemagne, and his father, Pippin the Short, were first known to "take the waters" are in a park, right in the center of town. In the center of the park is a glassed-in archaeological dig displaying remnants of his castle and another thousand years of Aachen history.

Aachen Archaeological Display in the City Center

We finished visiting the Cathedral around 7:00 PM and were hungry again; a bratwurst and salad isn't all that filling. We decided to go to a family restaurant about a mile away. Along the way, Kathy met these umbrella-carrying ladies.